In
March, 1965, there was a new youth cult in town. Leicester's Illustrated
Chronicle wrote about their tastes, their attitudes and their sky-high clothes
budget. Here's the original report.
For want
of another name, these Leicester youngsters call themselves STYLISTS. They have
their own ideas about dress and behaviour. They don’t like the Beatles, or
fighting ... some spend 95 per cent of their earnings on clothes. Here’s what
they say about themselves:
“You
can’t be ‘in’ with us until you’re 18” – Mary Anderton, aged 21.
“Girls
are out” – 19-year-old Tony J Gourvish.
“I
wouldn’t be seen dead on the back of a motorbike” – 18-year-old hosiery cutter
Pamela Johnson.
Leicester’s
young group of ‘with-its’ don’t even have a name. If you ask them who they are
they’ll probably make up a name on the spot. “We’re sort of moderns, I suppose.
Not Mods, mind you.” Or “we’re stylists, that’s all.”
Not for
them the vulgarities and violence of the Teds and the rest of the old guard.
They are
forward looking... “Oh it was MEDIAEVAL then,” said the girl with false
eyelashes and no lipstick, referring to 1964 and the year or two before that.
“All you
had to do was buy a tight pair of jeans for a few bob, listen to the Top Twenty
and let your hair grow, and that was IT.
“There’s
no with-it uniform now, you know. You dress any way you like. But you must stay
IN. You must belong to the In Group.”
Previously,
every new trend stood – and eventually fell – by the peculiar inflexibility of
its own rules. In the dim and distant 1950s you just had to wear great
silent-soled suedes and comb your hair back from your padded shoulders with a
handful of hair grease. You had to love Elvis.
Then
after the jeans and studded leather era when you had to love motorcycles came the
Beatles and their uniform, it was all very rigid.
“Fighting
is right out,” said 20-year-old bricklayer Mick Colquhoun, who lives at St
Leonard’s Road.
“The
only people who get their kicks from fighting are the hard cases. They don’t
like our kind of music and they wouldn’t spend the money we do on clothes.”
Mick
spends “95 per cent” of his income on clothes, wouldn’t dream of paying less
than 25 guineas for a suit and has it made in London. He sends to America for
shoes – at about £8 a time.
The new
group appear to be abstemious and pills– drugs of any kind, even cigarettes –
don’t officially “rate”.
We met
them at the Monday night Oodly-Boodly club at the Victoria Hotel in Leicester.
The
official seal of In Group success is the term Face. If you’re a Face you rate
high enough to be imitated, to have your verdicts on fashion handed on.
“One of
the top Faces in Leicester” is 19-year-old Tony J Gourvish, who is only known
in Group circles by his pseudonym of Gobi. He is an office worker and lives at
621, Welford Road.
“Girls
are out too,” said Gobi. “We spend all our money on clothes. And in my spare
time I think up new ideas for clothes. This suit was my own idea. Had it made
in London for £25.
“We
don’t really rate mixed dancing either. All the lads dance together in a
circle.”
At the
Oodly-Boodly Club there was plenty of fraternisation between the sexes but when
it came too dancing they tended to split up.
There
was no petting in the dark corners – presumably that, too, was “out”.
“The
Beatles the Stones... they’re all rubbish,” said a Face. “We’re a minority. We
don’t usually like anything in the Top Fifty, although we might settle on one
of the more popular numbers if we rate it enough. We’re individualists.”
For the
girls it’s false eye-lashes and the pale, no-make-up look. Again, much store is
set by having an original one-off costume. Some girls make their own, just to
be sure.
“It’s
hard to be “in” before you’re 18,” said Mary Anderton, 21, of 92, Monmouth
Drive, Glen Parva.
“You
don’t start getting any real money until then. It’s expensive. We don’t have
anything but the best. We never go to the cheap shops.”
As with
the boys, it was easier to say what was “Trout” (out) than to try to explain
the special ingredient for being “in”.
As far
as music goes, they said, none of the “good groups” are in the hit parade. OUTS
are: back-combed hair, short tight skirts, pointed toes, high heels, big
handbags, red lipstick.
“We’re
so much in front of the Trouts that we’ll be in for ever,” said a 19-year-old
girl, pale in the darkness, moving her large, nylon eyelashes. “Until we get to
26. That’s the end. That’s when you become respectable.”
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